Why the Organic Certification Process Isn’t Sustainable
I don’t mind putting up with tedious government regulations for the sake of living in civilization. There will always be people who are willing to throw toxic sludge into the river in order to save a buck if no one’s looking…if not because they are inherently evil, then only because they are ignorant. In theory, checks and balances create accountability.
I learned a lot about sustainable farming when I worked for Green B.E.A.N. Delivery as the Fort Wayne market coordinator. Demonstrating compliance for the organic certification process takes a lot of time and money. Many small farmers focus on producing high quality food while protecting the environment, and can’t afford the extra bullshit to fertilize their crops with an “official” stamp of approval. So they label themselves “sustainably grown” and quietly go about their business.
I’ll buy from those guys every time. 100% of the time.
I use Green B.E.A.N. Delivery for the majority of my grocery shopping, and one of my favorite items is Phoenix Organics “Great Balls of Tofu”. They are seriously the best!–and are the only product I regularly stock because I haven’t been able to easily recreate them from scratch in my own kitchen.
So when GBD stopped carrying them, I cried. But then, I remembered that I don’t take “no” without a fight, and I called the manufacturer directly. The company didn’t have an on-line store, but the owner kindly agreed to send me a case. (They store well in the freezer.) I was back in business!
Phoenix Organics makes the Great Balls of Tofu, as well as thick, restaurant quality veggie burgers and a delicious egg-less salad. They are located in Spencer, West Virginia. Coincidently, I travel in that direction a few times a year to play in the New River Gorge. When my sacred supply dwindled down to the last pack in the case, l decided to take a road trip, and drive my four kids and large dog, with all of our bikes, kites and gear to West Virginia for a little playtime. And as the gorge is conveniently close to Phoenix Organics (only in theory…getting there was an quite an adventure), I’d replenish my Great Balls of Tofu. Double win for me!
The 2 hour detour turned into five, partially because my iMap didn’t sync with the rural road signs (even Google can get lost in West Virginia!). But also because from the moment I met Bill Quick, the owner, I recognized a kindred soul, and we became fast friends. On a tour of the facility, I saw how tofu is made, and how important integrity is to the process. He didn’t bat an eye at all the kids and dogs and crazy hot mess that I am, and I couldn’t care less that his office was in the break room, and that wifi wasn’t an option. We just started talking, and didn’t stop for several hours.
He proudly showed me around his facility, which included equipment that has been in use for nearly 100 years. Unlike large factories that use automated processes to increase efficiency and profit, Bill’s company believes in quality and old-school integrity. They use real people, non-gmo soybeans and fresh running water to prepare one-of-a-kind recipes. They are sustainable in their systems, and do things right the first time.
In prior years, it cost $793 for Phoenix Organics to go through the USDA organic certification process. But a cost-share program sponsored by the USDA and the WVDA offered $702 in rebates (for those willing to jump through another set of hoops). So last year, less than $100 was needed to demonstrate compliance.
But with an update of the 2013 Farm Bill, cost-sharing was eliminated, and the price tag for the organic certification process increased dramatically.
Phoenix Organics now faces a minimum $2400 obstacle course to prove that they are (still) doing things right. (Isn’t it funny how our government subsidizes conventional commodities that are responsible for much of the planet’s pollution to the tune of $20 billion/year, but charges the little guys profit-crushing fees in order to show they aren’t using fertilizers, pesticides and unnatural processes? Isn’t that INSANE?)
Last year, the inspection of the Phoenix Organic’s facility took place in Bill Quick’s office. It took six hours to ensure all the paperwork was all in order. As the interview concluded, it was Bill who invited the inspector to tour his business. He’s proud of his work, and he found it illogical that the USDA seemed to just want the “i’s” dotted on the forms (and the check, of course).Why wouldn’t they want to see the processes in action?
To put that in perspective, when the rabbi came to certify the facility as “kosher”, he didn’t care about the files and forms. He simply wanted to SEE if things were indeed kosher. When Bill questioned him, the rabbi answered, “Um, Paperwork is irrelevant. I answer to a higher authority.”
Right on, rabbi!
Bill Quick made the decision to keep his $2400, and stop playing games with the USDA.
This means that although Phoenix Organics is produced under strict organic conditions, they are no longer USDA certified. They now have to remove the word “organic” from their brand name, packaging and labels. Evidently, the USDA owns the monopoly on the word “organic”, and no one can use it without paying homage. (Incidentally, it’s not cheap to refile trademarks and domain names, design new logos and reprint marketing materials to eliminate “organic” from everything. And even though they ARE still organic, it’s illegal for them to use the word.)
So they’ll have to depend on smart customers to recognize the integrity behind their new “sustainable” approach, hoping that “organic” discussions between friends and neighbors will educate their customers on the unsustainable rules behind the organic certification process.
Sustainability occurs when a process can continue indefinitely without robbing Peter to pay Paul. It’s about balance. Both conventionally produced and USDA certified organic crops are ultimately a part of the system that is wreaking havoc on our bodies and environment. And as larger producers and corporations respond to consumer demand for “organic” food, they will industrialize the process to maximize the productivity of farmers, animals and land. In many cases, they already have.
Corporations are designed to do one thing…create a marketable product that will make money for shareholders. And you can bet that those same shareholders will lobby our law makers to change the “organic” regulations they find profit-limiting. And it’s a slippery slope back to business-as-usual. A quick look at the graphic above demonstrates that the same old wolves are gaining control of the hen house that just wants access to healthy food.
In the end, the term “organic” is quickly being reduced to a legal term that changes with every election cycle. The Golden Rule in America has become, “he who has the gold makes the rules”.
Before I was able to publish this, I was informed that Bill Quick passed away. The day of my visit, we had decided to partner together. Waking Up Vegan would create an on-line store so that more customers can have easy access to these amazing vegan, gluten-free and kosher products.
I am so sad! I regrettably did not take a picture of the two of us on the day that we met, assuming I’d just get it “next time”. It hurts to realize that sometimes, there isn’t a next time. I’ve been told that his son is taking control of the business, ensuring that Bill’s legacy lives on. If asked, I’ll still create the e-commerce store. Hopefully, this sustainable business will continue to grow and be prosperous for that family and community.
Rest in peace, Bill! Listen to my rough interview with Bill Quick, owner of Phoenix Organics, recorded just before he passed away. Bill and I discuss his experience with the organic certification process.
Isn’t it sad that the government can own the word “organic” as if they’d invented it often forcing small producers to struggle to make a living or even exist. Also heartbreaking is the fact that companies that I was loyal to a decade ago such as Muir Glen, Garden of Eatin’ and Seeds of Change are incorporated into the industrial food machine leaving a void and, more often than not, the consumers are not even aware they are being run by the giants. I constantly struggle with this but I’ve learned to delve into the origins of our food, often going on “field trips” or using vacation time to search out small farms and producers that produce food with integrity. Thank you for the information and your continued efforts!
Full disclosure: I work on the education side of the organization that certified Phoenix Organics. The certification process is expensive, and time consuming. (Which is why cost-share has been important.) But please understand the history behind a national organic label. It was requested by farmers and organizations who were all coming up with their own standards, and because of the varying standards, it created an uneven playing field for farmers. Farmers and organic organizations designed the national standards. They are not perfect, and becoming certified organic does not suit everyone.
However, if you are unable to know your farmer or processor (and have personally verified their practices), it is the best measure to know that you can trust what is really being advertised–because there is a third party verification process. This process includes reviewing an organic systems plan, having an independent on-site inspection of the farm (or facility) and records, and working with the farmer or processor to address all non-compliances (if any). The reason there is so much paperwork and record keeping is to be able to back up that they are truly following the standards. For example, that they have bought organic seed (and enough of it) to produce the crop they are growing.
This was a very nice feature and tribute to Bill. He was a very sweet man.
I appreciate your thoughtful reply, but I wholeheartedly disagree with the statement about why the NOP was created. You see, I was a certified organic farmer BEFORE the NOP usurped “organics.” It certainly wasn’t what the small, dedicated “real” farmers wanted or asked for! We already had excellent certifiers. We weren’t going to the trouble of meeting standards & paying for certification to get rich; we were doing it because we believed in it!The National Organic Standards were flawed from the beginning. They allow any water source! And they allow farmers & producers to neglect the standards without serious repercussions. Do you really think Horizon Organics flinched at the slap on the wrist & fines they got for purposefully mixing organic & non-organic milk & selling it as organic?! Do you think they stopped or can be trusted?! Well, I don’t. I think their certifications should be revoked!
I studied the NOP. I’ve talked to people involved in the creation. And I refused to certify under the NOP. It means nothing.
Do I buy organics? Yes, I do. But only from companies I trust…so the certification…does it have any value beyond greed? I also buy non-certified organically grown & produced goods, too.
*****
We love & miss Bill Quick; he was a wonderful friend! Thank you for keeping this up; I was searching for a picture & will listen to the interview with my family.
I’m in love with your website, recipes, and mentality! 🙂 Such a gem to find in the internet, which so frequently disappoints. Keep on keeping on, girl!